Monday, December 15, 2014

Formative Assessment

Today marked my formative assessment. I chose to recreate the look that Tanya Taylor had created. This featured clean skin that had a bronze dewy glow to it, bronze eye shadow on the eyelids, natural brows and a statement orange lip. I chose this look because I felt that finding a the right shade of lipstick and foundation that had this bronze glow would be a challenge for me and force me to become more product aware.

I wanted to use Mac’s face and body foundation for this look as I felt that it would provide the sheerer coverage that was displayed in the visuals I had of the look. My model had a few breakouts so I decided to conceal these first as this is the technique I was taught previous lessons that works well when creating a sheer coverage. To conceal these breakouts I used my derma pallet as I felt these would work best for applying underneath foundation as the product is unlikely to move and rub off when applying the foundation. From the derma pallet I first used a greenish yellow tone to counteract the redness of the breakouts and then applied a colour that matched in with my models skin tone. One thing I found particularly hard during this process was that my model had one breakout near her temple which had scabbed over and then the scab had lifted meaning what was left was an open wound. This resulted in the product lifting every time I applied it. I ended up leaving this until later which meant that I could successfully apply the product. I then moved on concealing the circles under my models eyes as although the look I was recreating maintained a sheer coverage there were no obvious circles under any of the models eyes. To conceal these circles I first used the d32 colour to counteract any blue/purple hues and the applied the colour which matched in with my models skin tone that I had previously mixed.

The next step was foundation. To achieve the right shade of foundation I mixed two colours together, I feel that my colour match was good. The next thing I worked on was achieving the right finish with my foundation as it needed a very golden glow to it. To achieve this I mixed some of Benefit’s ‘sun beam’ highlighter in with my foundation, this is a liquid highlighter that is golden in colour and therefore mixed nicely with Mac’s face and body foundation. I then applied this mixture to the face using a light hand so not to overload the skin. Generally this went well but I did end up with a line on one side of the face. I was happy with the luminosity I added to my foundation. For this look I didn’t add any blusher as I could not see any visible on my images of Tanya Taylor’s look. My model had quite naturally rosy skin so I removed a little bit of the foundation I had added to this area.

I then worked on the eyes. For the eyes I added a bronze colour to the eyelids for this I used the maybe line 24hr colour tattoo in ‘on and on bronze’ . I applied this very lightly to reflect the light wash that was present in the look. I also only applied the colour up to the crease as I could not see any visible crease work. The next thing I did on the eyes was the brows. The brows in Tanya Taylor’s look were kept very natural so to reflect this I made sure not to create a very distinct colour in the brow by using shadow or pencil to fill them in and instead just ran through them with brow gel so that they maintained a natural appearance and the hairs were not unruly. The last thing I did on the eyes was apply some mascara. The look I was recreating did not appear to have any false lashes and just a couple of coats of mascara. I used a Mac mascara for this which is not a product that I am a massive fan of. I applied the mascara to the left eye first and this worked fine however when I moved on to the right eye the mascara clumped the lashes together a bit too much to effectively reflect the look. To solve this I took some make-up remover and rubbed this on to the lashes. This then broke down the mascara slightly meaning that I was able to comb through the lashes removing some of the clumps.

My next step was to add anything else required to the skin. The first thing I did was to set the foundation with the Ben Nye loose powder in the colour fair. I make sure to apply a very light dusting of this to the skin as I did not want to loose the dewy finish I had created. I think took some of Mac’s ‘soft and gentle’ mineralise skin finish and applied this on to the face in any areas that I could see an extra sheen had been added in the original look. The areas that I added this were the tops of the cheeks, middle of the forehead, chin, cupids bow and a little down the centre of the nose.

The final thing to create was the statement orange lip. For this I first took the Mac lipstick in ‘Vegas Volt’ this colour was a little too pastel for Taylor’s look so I mixed some of the bright red tone from my Kryolan lip pallet with it. I think this colour worked well for a representation but wasn’t quite an exact match and needed to be a bit more orange. If I were to mix it again I would add some of the bright orange tone form my La Macquillage pallet to give it a brighter orange tone. While applying this I tried to keep the lip line really clean. To start this I took the lip line down too far on the left hand side of the bottom lip. I rectified this by adding taking a cotton bud with a tiny bit of cleanser on it and cleaned the line up then used some concealer to cover over where I had taken away a little bit of the foundation. I also ran the concealer arounf the rest of the lip line to make it very sharp and stand out. I then got my model to blot the lipstick to ensure staying power and to reduce the risk of smudging. After this I went over the lips with a tiny bit of the lipstick as I did not want a matte finish to the lips because this was not presented on Taylor’s look.

Overall I think my look is successful but I need to work on my colour mixing and ensuring that foundation is very well blended so there are no visible lines on the face.



Picture demonstrating foundation line









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