Michaela Lesley MUA: December 2014

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Formative Assessment-Hair

Today marked my formative assessment where I was required to re-create a hairstyle seen on the catwalk the look I chose to re-create came from Tanya Taylor catwalk look.
To start this look I created a middle parting in my models hair as this is what was presented in Taylor's look. I was required to use an electrical appliance for my assessment. I used straighteners as the hair in the look was very smooth and sleek. To straighten the hair I took it a section at a time as my models natural hair contained quite a lot of texture.

I then worked on creating the plaits. This was not very successful as I started my plaits too high. I also but sectioning clips in the hair where I could see them on the visuals I had. My teacher then informed me that this was just a backstage photo and not what would have been used in the show. I should have realised this. What I should have done is removed the sectioning clips and secured the plaits with some back combing. Starting the plaits lower would have also given some lift that was needed at the roots and back of the hair.

I am very disappointed with the look that I created. Unfortunately I did not get a photo of this look so I recreated it on myself at home using the same time constraints.

This time the look was much more successful due to the fact that I took my feedback from the lesson into consideration and I was working on my own hair which had just been washed and is longer than my models.

Monday, December 15, 2014

Formative Assessment

Today marked my formative assessment. I chose to recreate the look that Tanya Taylor had created. This featured clean skin that had a bronze dewy glow to it, bronze eye shadow on the eyelids, natural brows and a statement orange lip. I chose this look because I felt that finding a the right shade of lipstick and foundation that had this bronze glow would be a challenge for me and force me to become more product aware.

I wanted to use Mac’s face and body foundation for this look as I felt that it would provide the sheerer coverage that was displayed in the visuals I had of the look. My model had a few breakouts so I decided to conceal these first as this is the technique I was taught previous lessons that works well when creating a sheer coverage. To conceal these breakouts I used my derma pallet as I felt these would work best for applying underneath foundation as the product is unlikely to move and rub off when applying the foundation. From the derma pallet I first used a greenish yellow tone to counteract the redness of the breakouts and then applied a colour that matched in with my models skin tone. One thing I found particularly hard during this process was that my model had one breakout near her temple which had scabbed over and then the scab had lifted meaning what was left was an open wound. This resulted in the product lifting every time I applied it. I ended up leaving this until later which meant that I could successfully apply the product. I then moved on concealing the circles under my models eyes as although the look I was recreating maintained a sheer coverage there were no obvious circles under any of the models eyes. To conceal these circles I first used the d32 colour to counteract any blue/purple hues and the applied the colour which matched in with my models skin tone that I had previously mixed.

The next step was foundation. To achieve the right shade of foundation I mixed two colours together, I feel that my colour match was good. The next thing I worked on was achieving the right finish with my foundation as it needed a very golden glow to it. To achieve this I mixed some of Benefit’s ‘sun beam’ highlighter in with my foundation, this is a liquid highlighter that is golden in colour and therefore mixed nicely with Mac’s face and body foundation. I then applied this mixture to the face using a light hand so not to overload the skin. Generally this went well but I did end up with a line on one side of the face. I was happy with the luminosity I added to my foundation. For this look I didn’t add any blusher as I could not see any visible on my images of Tanya Taylor’s look. My model had quite naturally rosy skin so I removed a little bit of the foundation I had added to this area.

I then worked on the eyes. For the eyes I added a bronze colour to the eyelids for this I used the maybe line 24hr colour tattoo in ‘on and on bronze’ . I applied this very lightly to reflect the light wash that was present in the look. I also only applied the colour up to the crease as I could not see any visible crease work. The next thing I did on the eyes was the brows. The brows in Tanya Taylor’s look were kept very natural so to reflect this I made sure not to create a very distinct colour in the brow by using shadow or pencil to fill them in and instead just ran through them with brow gel so that they maintained a natural appearance and the hairs were not unruly. The last thing I did on the eyes was apply some mascara. The look I was recreating did not appear to have any false lashes and just a couple of coats of mascara. I used a Mac mascara for this which is not a product that I am a massive fan of. I applied the mascara to the left eye first and this worked fine however when I moved on to the right eye the mascara clumped the lashes together a bit too much to effectively reflect the look. To solve this I took some make-up remover and rubbed this on to the lashes. This then broke down the mascara slightly meaning that I was able to comb through the lashes removing some of the clumps.

My next step was to add anything else required to the skin. The first thing I did was to set the foundation with the Ben Nye loose powder in the colour fair. I make sure to apply a very light dusting of this to the skin as I did not want to loose the dewy finish I had created. I think took some of Mac’s ‘soft and gentle’ mineralise skin finish and applied this on to the face in any areas that I could see an extra sheen had been added in the original look. The areas that I added this were the tops of the cheeks, middle of the forehead, chin, cupids bow and a little down the centre of the nose.

The final thing to create was the statement orange lip. For this I first took the Mac lipstick in ‘Vegas Volt’ this colour was a little too pastel for Taylor’s look so I mixed some of the bright red tone from my Kryolan lip pallet with it. I think this colour worked well for a representation but wasn’t quite an exact match and needed to be a bit more orange. If I were to mix it again I would add some of the bright orange tone form my La Macquillage pallet to give it a brighter orange tone. While applying this I tried to keep the lip line really clean. To start this I took the lip line down too far on the left hand side of the bottom lip. I rectified this by adding taking a cotton bud with a tiny bit of cleanser on it and cleaned the line up then used some concealer to cover over where I had taken away a little bit of the foundation. I also ran the concealer arounf the rest of the lip line to make it very sharp and stand out. I then got my model to blot the lipstick to ensure staying power and to reduce the risk of smudging. After this I went over the lips with a tiny bit of the lipstick as I did not want a matte finish to the lips because this was not presented on Taylor’s look.

Overall I think my look is successful but I need to work on my colour mixing and ensuring that foundation is very well blended so there are no visible lines on the face.

Picture demonstrating foundation line

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Kit

During today's lesson our teacher talked to us about her kit. These are the notes I made.
-Zuca worth the investment label so you know it’s yours
-Emj makes mats that are better than coach roll as you keep using them and don’t have to wash them like towels
-Worth having straws incase artist wants to drink
-Keep weight distributed evenly otherwise Zuca will topple
-Cotton Pads and cotton buds
-Fragrance free make-up wipes
-Bioderma
-Paw-Paw ointment
-Aveda all sensitive
-Body moisturiser
-IPA
-Spirit gum, hydra spirit gum (water based)
-Mac studio sculpt
-Bobbi Brown stick foundation and creamy concealed set
-Make-up forever HD foundation
-Primers HD and illuminating
-Make-up forever camouflage concealer
-Make-up forever HD powder, Mac Pro finishing powder
-Mac mineralize skin finish powder based dewy foundation
-Brozers mix of matte and shimmer
-Mix shimmer and matte with blushers
-Have a lighter and darker of each shade
-Illamasqua gleam in aurora highlighter that transforms dull looking skin
-White powder for paling down skin on period work
-Revolution blush pallets
-Make-up forever flash pallet can do anything with them
-Eyeshadow bases painterly and groundwork skin tones
-Kryolan snow pure white good for neon base to intensify
-Mascara
-Illamasqua vow eye pencil

Sunday, December 7, 2014

Colour Theory

For homework our teacher asked us to learn our colour theory. This is very important in make-up as you need to know what colours will counteract each other. you work this out by taking colours from the opposite sides of the colour wheel. For example a peach toned concealer would counteract any blue tones under the eyes as orange is opposite blue on the colour wheel.
This theory can also be applied to someone's eye colour for example my eyes are a yellow green so a purple or cranberry tone would bring out the colour of my eyes.

Face Chart

Today's lesson we looked at face charts.
I learnt that you must use powder and aqua colour on face charts. Cream products can smudge and tend to leave an oily residue.
The face chart I completed portrays the look I am going to re-create for my assessment.

YSL Black Opium Campaign

A campaign I have chosen to look at is the YSL Black Opium perfume campaign. This look is very sultry and dark.

Two things I really like about the look is that the hair has been left quite natural and messy. I also like how the focus of the eye make-up is under the eye rather than on the lid. I also like the full brows.

If I were to recreate this look I would start by using a full coverage foundation similar to Mac's studio fix however I would still want to keep the dewy look the skin has in the campaign so therefore I would mix a highlighter similar to Benefit's 'girl meets pearl' into my foundation. For blush I would use a brownish plum tone and apply this just to the outside of the cheeks. I would then fill in the brows using the derma colour pallet to give the full brows displayed in the campaign. I would then apply a shimmery taupe colour to the eyelid for this I would use the colour suspect from the urban decay naked 2 pallet.

I can see a clear a clear link to catwalk looks on fashion weeks. During Paris haute couture fashion week for Spring/Summer 2014 Chanel had models sporting a winged liner with silver glitter placed under the eye. This look was also featured in Nicki Minaj's campaign for Mac. I can also see a link to the Burberry look I have researched in that they both feature a strong colour on the eyes and both have eye-shadow placed under the eyes.I would then line the top lash line with a liquid liner. I would probably use my favourite which is the l'oreal super liner perfect slim. I would then line the waterline and tightline right into the corner of the eyes using a jet black pencil liner like Rimmel's scandal eyes eye liner. For the black under the eyes I would start by lining just under the eye with a pencil then using a brush to blend it downward with a pencil brush. If I felt it needed intensifying I would then add a matte black eyeshadow like Urban Decay's Blackout from the naked 2 pallet to this and blend again. To recreate the lips in this look I would use a very light coat of Mac's 'please me' lipstick which is a matte dusky pink shade.

Images from and Elle magazine December 2014 issue

Campaign

Paris Fashion Week

Miss Dior Campaign

The next campaign I looked at was the Miss Doir perfume campign featuring Nathalie Portman this look contrasts massively to YSL campaign in that it features a very simplistic natural pretty make-up.Of the two campaigns this is the look I favour.

If I were to recreate this look I would use a light coverage foundation with a satin finish as the skin does not look very dewy, A product that would work well for this would be the Estee Lauder double work light. If I were to use any eye shadows I would use matte shadows in nudes tones, using a colour similar to my models natural skin tone on the eyelid and a slightly darker colour in the socket line. I may also use a slightly paler colour on the brow bone and inner corner.I would use a fluffy brush to blend these really well in order to try and achieve a look of no eye-shadow. I does look as if Natalie has some eye-liner on her top lash line. To me this doesn't look as solid as a liquid liner it also has a matte finish which leads me to believe either a gel liner or black eye-shadow has been used. If I were creating this liner I would use the Inglot gel liner. Nathalie's lashes don't look to have lots of mascara on and the lashes look lengthened rather than volumised for this reason I would apply 1 or 2 coats of a lengthening mascara similar to l'oreal's telescopic mascara. For the blush I would choose a matte pale pink blusher like Benefit's Dandelion.The lips in this campaign look to be very natural and therefore I would either leave them natural and just use a tiny bit of lip balm. If I were to use a colour I would select a nude to suit my models skin tone similar to Mac's shy girl.

I can see that this has been heavily influenced by fashion as clean fresh looking skin has all over the catwalks in recent years.

Danny Defreitas

A hair stylist I have decided to look at for fashion work is Danny Defreitas
'Danny's focused expertise in hair and make-up, assures his suitability for working in the many sectors within the industry such as TV, Film, Theatre, Events, Celebrities & Fashion.

He has come a long way in a short space of time, because of his approach that no job is too big or too small, and his willingness to grow and learn through creative enterprise.

Danny’s reputation is built on his skills for creating beautiful highly individualistic hair & make up, without compromising the clients desired look. Heavily influenced by the arts, theatre and media industries, his speedy expertise always aims to deliver client expectations and exceed them.

His philosophy is that a great look lies in creating innovative, signature, and wearable looks unique to the individual. He believes the best thing about working with in this field is that it’s ever evolving, having the confidence to follow your passion to create something different. His ambition is to bring new standards in trying to achieve unparalleled perfection coupled with ingenuity by balancing ideas through art, nature and science.'

Written by Amalia Rex

Fashion shows that Defreitas has worked on include;

-VELSVOIR & OCTOBER HOUSE - Head of Hair & Make Up - The Ivy Club - LC:M SS14

-RIHANNA FOR RIVERISLAND - London Fashion Week AW13

-RIHANNA FOR RIVER ISLAND - London Fashion Week SS13

-EMILIA WICKSTEAD - London Fashion Week AW14

-SORAPOL - London Fashion Week AW14

-M&S - Somerset House - London Fashion Weekend Catwalk AW13

-AHNDE - London Fashion Week SS14 - Head of Hair

-HACKETT LONDON - LC:M A/W 2013

-RAKE - LC:M A/W 2013

-JAMES LONG - LC:M A/W 2013

-FASHION LIVES - Westfield London Catwalk Show

-BIG FASHION WARDOBE – Westfield London Catwalk Show

-CAR BOOTIQUE SHOW – Westfield London Catwalk Show

There is a clear influence from Defreitas in the fashion world. He has created blunt cuts, full bodied blow dries a wet look hair styles all of which has been featured in catwalks recently.

Kevyn Aucoin

An artist who inspires me is Kevyn Aucoin (14th Febuary 1962- 7th May 2002)

Aucoin was born and grew up in Louisiana to parents Isidore Adrian Aucoin and Thelma Suzanne Melancon, who adopted him as an infant. He had three siblings. Sisters Carla and Kim who he would frequently do make-up for growing up and a brother Keith.

Being male and interested in make-up caused hard ship for Aucoin growing up in the south of america during the 1970's. During highschool bullying became so bad that Aucoin eventually left school prior to graduation.

In 1982 after enrolling in beauty school Aucoin moved from Lafayette ,where women were uncomfortable with a man doing their make-up, to Baton Rouge in the hopes of starting a career in make-up. However prejudice was still very much alive in Baton Rouge and after being assaulted by a security guard and fearing for his life Aucoin moved again to New York.

Aucoin's career went from strenghth to strenghth while living in New York. After working on test models unpaid to build his portfolio he was discovered by vougue. Over the next year and a half Aucoin worked daily with vougue photographer Steve Meisel.

in 1984 Revlon then collaborated with Aucoin to create their 'Nakeds' line. The first line based purley on skintones. This line was groundbreaking and an opposition to other cosmetics available at the time. Prior to this there were make-up lines for white women and others for black women. Aucoin work to design foundations for all skin tones ans created foundations with a yellow undertone whereas before undertones had always been pink and peach.

A year before his death in 2001 Aucoin launched his own brand 'Kevyn Aucoin Beauty'. This line contains products that use 'his motto that it was far more important to help a woman feel beautiful no matter what, and that make-up was just his tool for helping her discover herself'.
He has also written two bestselling books 'making faces' and 'face forward'.

Kevyn Aucoin was one of the most sought after make-up artists during his time often being booked for months in advanced and being able to request up to $6000 per day. His influence is still prevalent in the fashion industry today. He also inpires the make-up artists of today Pat McGrath and Charlotte Tilbury.

Kevin Aucoin Making Faces

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Monday, December 15, 2014

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Monday, December 8, 2014

ALAINPICHON.COM

Alain Pichon Hair | Gallery

ALAINPICHON.COM

Alain Pichon Hair | Profile

AUCOIN, K.

Making faces

DANNY DEFREITAS | CELEBRITY HAIR & MAKE UP ARTIST

DANNY DEFREITAS | Celebrity Hair & Make Up Artist - ENTER

FASHION.TELEGRAPH.CO.UK

Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week: spring/summer 2014 blog - Telegraph

GHDHAIR.COM

GLAM UK

Backstage with Maybelline at ASHISH

MACCOSMETICS.CO.UK

MAC Cosmetics UK | Foundation | Face And Body Foundation | Official UK Site

MAKEUP AND BEAUTY BLOG: MAKEUP REVIEWS, TIPS, PICTURES AND MORE

MAC All About Orange Lipstick Pictures, Swatches, Review

MARCH, B.

Winnie Harlow owned the Ashish runway

SPACENK.COM

Kevyn Aucoin The Legacy of a Makeup Icon | Space NK

SUPERDRUG.COM

Maybelline Color Tattoo Eyeshadow On & On Bronze

VOGUE

Pat McGrath - Photos - Vogue

VOGUE UK

Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-To-Wear

WENDY ROWE

London Fashion Week SS15

WIKIPEDIA

Kevyn Aucoin

WIKIPEDIA

Pat McGrath

Sunday, December 7, 2014