Today I did a practise run for my photo shoot on myself. I have decided to take the glossy lip from Tom Fords catwalk look. I however want to make the look more wearable and beauty based therefore I want to make the eye less intense and more similar to the eye make-up displayed at Roberto Cavalli's SS15 collection. Both these looks feature flawless dewy skin and very natural slightly messy hair. To achieve this hair look I am going to wrap the hair very loosely around a curling wand and back comb it slightly ant the roots then shake the hair through with my hands.
I started by using Mac's Studio Fix foundation this is a full coverage matte foundation. This provided the right amount of coverage and made the skin look flawless but the finish was a too matte for my final look. I will experiment with different foundations to combat this as well as mixing some liquid highlighter with the foundation. I then concealed the circles under my eyes by using some d32 from my derma-colour pallet and blending this in then applying some additional foundation over this. This technique worked fairly well although I would like slightly more coverage so next time I'll use a peach concealer as well.
I then moved onto the eye make-up. I started the eye make-up by applying the smoky taupe colour form my Ben Nye pallet to my eyelid. I then buffed the black brown colour into my crease and applied a bit of black to my outer corner. For my brow bone I applied the colour shell to highlight also from the Ben Nye pallet I also added this colour the the inner corner of my eye. I then applied the Mac eye pencil in 'feline' to my top lash line and softened it slightly using an angled brush. I also applied this to my waterline. My last step was to apply some of the 'black brown' shadow to my lower lash line. I think the techniques I have used for this look have created the right shape for the look I think I want but I want a cleaner look for my photo shoot so I think I will tone it down due by experimenting with lighter colours. I then filled my brows with a mac brow pencil and put some brow gel through them. I think something for next time is to brush the brows up slightly.
I then did some contouring and highlight. For the contour I used a shade from my la macillage pallet darker than my skin tone and applied this in the hollows of my cheeks. I applied this with a foundation brush and buffed it in using a buffing brush. I'm really happy with the way this looked so I will defiantly keep this technique. For highlight I used Mac'd mineralize skin finish in soft and gentle and added this to the tops of my cheek bones. This worked nicely in my skin tone but my model is a lot fairer than I am so I think something with a champagne tone would probably work better. I did not apply any blush to my cheeks as I already have a lot of redness in this area but I will need to apply this to my models face.
My final step was to add a lip colour I tried out a neutral ombre lip. I started by mixing some of Mac's lipstick in shy girl with some of a pink tone from the kryolan pallet. I then added a brown tone from the kryolan pallet to the corners of my mouth and a pale tone to the middle. Although I like the effect this created I don't think it fits with the look I want to create. I think what I will do next time is apply a glossy oink tone to the lip.
Saturday, March 7, 2015
Tuesday, December 16, 2014
Formative Assessment-Hair
Today marked my formative assessment where I was required to re-create a hairstyle seen on the catwalk the look I chose to re-create came from Tanya Taylor catwalk look.
To start this look I created a middle parting in my models hair as this is what was presented in Taylor's look. I was required to use an electrical appliance for my assessment. I used straighteners as the hair in the look was very smooth and sleek. To straighten the hair I took it a section at a time as my models natural hair contained quite a lot of texture.
I then worked on creating the plaits. This was not very successful as I started my plaits too high. I also but sectioning clips in the hair where I could see them on the visuals I had. My teacher then informed me that this was just a backstage photo and not what would have been used in the show. I should have realised this. What I should have done is removed the sectioning clips and secured the plaits with some back combing. Starting the plaits lower would have also given some lift that was needed at the roots and back of the hair.
I am very disappointed with the look that I created. Unfortunately I did not get a photo of this look so I recreated it on myself at home using the same time constraints.
This time the look was much more successful due to the fact that I took my feedback from the lesson into consideration and I was working on my own hair which had just been washed and is longer than my models.
To start this look I created a middle parting in my models hair as this is what was presented in Taylor's look. I was required to use an electrical appliance for my assessment. I used straighteners as the hair in the look was very smooth and sleek. To straighten the hair I took it a section at a time as my models natural hair contained quite a lot of texture.
I then worked on creating the plaits. This was not very successful as I started my plaits too high. I also but sectioning clips in the hair where I could see them on the visuals I had. My teacher then informed me that this was just a backstage photo and not what would have been used in the show. I should have realised this. What I should have done is removed the sectioning clips and secured the plaits with some back combing. Starting the plaits lower would have also given some lift that was needed at the roots and back of the hair.
I am very disappointed with the look that I created. Unfortunately I did not get a photo of this look so I recreated it on myself at home using the same time constraints.
This time the look was much more successful due to the fact that I took my feedback from the lesson into consideration and I was working on my own hair which had just been washed and is longer than my models.
Monday, December 15, 2014
Formative Assessment
Today marked my formative assessment. I chose to recreate the look that Tanya Taylor had created. This featured clean skin that had a bronze dewy glow to it, bronze eye shadow on the eyelids, natural brows and a statement orange lip. I chose this look because I felt that finding a the right shade of lipstick and foundation that had this bronze glow would be a challenge for me and force me to become more product aware.
I wanted to use Mac’s face and body foundation for this look as I felt that it would provide the sheerer coverage that was displayed in the visuals I had of the look. My model had a few breakouts so I decided to conceal these first as this is the technique I was taught previous lessons that works well when creating a sheer coverage. To conceal these breakouts I used my derma pallet as I felt these would work best for applying underneath foundation as the product is unlikely to move and rub off when applying the foundation. From the derma pallet I first used a greenish yellow tone to counteract the redness of the breakouts and then applied a colour that matched in with my models skin tone. One thing I found particularly hard during this process was that my model had one breakout near her temple which had scabbed over and then the scab had lifted meaning what was left was an open wound. This resulted in the product lifting every time I applied it. I ended up leaving this until later which meant that I could successfully apply the product. I then moved on concealing the circles under my models eyes as although the look I was recreating maintained a sheer coverage there were no obvious circles under any of the models eyes. To conceal these circles I first used the d32 colour to counteract any blue/purple hues and the applied the colour which matched in with my models skin tone that I had previously mixed.
The next step was foundation. To achieve the right shade of foundation I mixed two colours together, I feel that my colour match was good. The next thing I worked on was achieving the right finish with my foundation as it needed a very golden glow to it. To achieve this I mixed some of Benefit’s ‘sun beam’ highlighter in with my foundation, this is a liquid highlighter that is golden in colour and therefore mixed nicely with Mac’s face and body foundation. I then applied this mixture to the face using a light hand so not to overload the skin. Generally this went well but I did end up with a line on one side of the face. I was happy with the luminosity I added to my foundation. For this look I didn’t add any blusher as I could not see any visible on my images of Tanya Taylor’s look. My model had quite naturally rosy skin so I removed a little bit of the foundation I had added to this area.
I then worked on the eyes. For the eyes I added a bronze colour to the eyelids for this I used the maybe line 24hr colour tattoo in ‘on and on bronze’ . I applied this very lightly to reflect the light wash that was present in the look. I also only applied the colour up to the crease as I could not see any visible crease work. The next thing I did on the eyes was the brows. The brows in Tanya Taylor’s look were kept very natural so to reflect this I made sure not to create a very distinct colour in the brow by using shadow or pencil to fill them in and instead just ran through them with brow gel so that they maintained a natural appearance and the hairs were not unruly. The last thing I did on the eyes was apply some mascara. The look I was recreating did not appear to have any false lashes and just a couple of coats of mascara. I used a Mac mascara for this which is not a product that I am a massive fan of. I applied the mascara to the left eye first and this worked fine however when I moved on to the right eye the mascara clumped the lashes together a bit too much to effectively reflect the look. To solve this I took some make-up remover and rubbed this on to the lashes. This then broke down the mascara slightly meaning that I was able to comb through the lashes removing some of the clumps.
My next step was to add anything else required to the skin. The first thing I did was to set the foundation with the Ben Nye loose powder in the colour fair. I make sure to apply a very light dusting of this to the skin as I did not want to loose the dewy finish I had created. I think took some of Mac’s ‘soft and gentle’ mineralise skin finish and applied this on to the face in any areas that I could see an extra sheen had been added in the original look. The areas that I added this were the tops of the cheeks, middle of the forehead, chin, cupids bow and a little down the centre of the nose.
The final thing to create was the statement orange lip. For this I first took the Mac lipstick in ‘Vegas Volt’ this colour was a little too pastel for Taylor’s look so I mixed some of the bright red tone from my Kryolan lip pallet with it. I think this colour worked well for a representation but wasn’t quite an exact match and needed to be a bit more orange. If I were to mix it again I would add some of the bright orange tone form my La Macquillage pallet to give it a brighter orange tone. While applying this I tried to keep the lip line really clean. To start this I took the lip line down too far on the left hand side of the bottom lip. I rectified this by adding taking a cotton bud with a tiny bit of cleanser on it and cleaned the line up then used some concealer to cover over where I had taken away a little bit of the foundation. I also ran the concealer arounf the rest of the lip line to make it very sharp and stand out. I then got my model to blot the lipstick to ensure staying power and to reduce the risk of smudging. After this I went over the lips with a tiny bit of the lipstick as I did not want a matte finish to the lips because this was not presented on Taylor’s look.
Overall I think my look is successful but I need to work on my colour mixing and ensuring that foundation is very well blended so there are no visible lines on the face.
I wanted to use Mac’s face and body foundation for this look as I felt that it would provide the sheerer coverage that was displayed in the visuals I had of the look. My model had a few breakouts so I decided to conceal these first as this is the technique I was taught previous lessons that works well when creating a sheer coverage. To conceal these breakouts I used my derma pallet as I felt these would work best for applying underneath foundation as the product is unlikely to move and rub off when applying the foundation. From the derma pallet I first used a greenish yellow tone to counteract the redness of the breakouts and then applied a colour that matched in with my models skin tone. One thing I found particularly hard during this process was that my model had one breakout near her temple which had scabbed over and then the scab had lifted meaning what was left was an open wound. This resulted in the product lifting every time I applied it. I ended up leaving this until later which meant that I could successfully apply the product. I then moved on concealing the circles under my models eyes as although the look I was recreating maintained a sheer coverage there were no obvious circles under any of the models eyes. To conceal these circles I first used the d32 colour to counteract any blue/purple hues and the applied the colour which matched in with my models skin tone that I had previously mixed.
The next step was foundation. To achieve the right shade of foundation I mixed two colours together, I feel that my colour match was good. The next thing I worked on was achieving the right finish with my foundation as it needed a very golden glow to it. To achieve this I mixed some of Benefit’s ‘sun beam’ highlighter in with my foundation, this is a liquid highlighter that is golden in colour and therefore mixed nicely with Mac’s face and body foundation. I then applied this mixture to the face using a light hand so not to overload the skin. Generally this went well but I did end up with a line on one side of the face. I was happy with the luminosity I added to my foundation. For this look I didn’t add any blusher as I could not see any visible on my images of Tanya Taylor’s look. My model had quite naturally rosy skin so I removed a little bit of the foundation I had added to this area.
I then worked on the eyes. For the eyes I added a bronze colour to the eyelids for this I used the maybe line 24hr colour tattoo in ‘on and on bronze’ . I applied this very lightly to reflect the light wash that was present in the look. I also only applied the colour up to the crease as I could not see any visible crease work. The next thing I did on the eyes was the brows. The brows in Tanya Taylor’s look were kept very natural so to reflect this I made sure not to create a very distinct colour in the brow by using shadow or pencil to fill them in and instead just ran through them with brow gel so that they maintained a natural appearance and the hairs were not unruly. The last thing I did on the eyes was apply some mascara. The look I was recreating did not appear to have any false lashes and just a couple of coats of mascara. I used a Mac mascara for this which is not a product that I am a massive fan of. I applied the mascara to the left eye first and this worked fine however when I moved on to the right eye the mascara clumped the lashes together a bit too much to effectively reflect the look. To solve this I took some make-up remover and rubbed this on to the lashes. This then broke down the mascara slightly meaning that I was able to comb through the lashes removing some of the clumps.
My next step was to add anything else required to the skin. The first thing I did was to set the foundation with the Ben Nye loose powder in the colour fair. I make sure to apply a very light dusting of this to the skin as I did not want to loose the dewy finish I had created. I think took some of Mac’s ‘soft and gentle’ mineralise skin finish and applied this on to the face in any areas that I could see an extra sheen had been added in the original look. The areas that I added this were the tops of the cheeks, middle of the forehead, chin, cupids bow and a little down the centre of the nose.
The final thing to create was the statement orange lip. For this I first took the Mac lipstick in ‘Vegas Volt’ this colour was a little too pastel for Taylor’s look so I mixed some of the bright red tone from my Kryolan lip pallet with it. I think this colour worked well for a representation but wasn’t quite an exact match and needed to be a bit more orange. If I were to mix it again I would add some of the bright orange tone form my La Macquillage pallet to give it a brighter orange tone. While applying this I tried to keep the lip line really clean. To start this I took the lip line down too far on the left hand side of the bottom lip. I rectified this by adding taking a cotton bud with a tiny bit of cleanser on it and cleaned the line up then used some concealer to cover over where I had taken away a little bit of the foundation. I also ran the concealer arounf the rest of the lip line to make it very sharp and stand out. I then got my model to blot the lipstick to ensure staying power and to reduce the risk of smudging. After this I went over the lips with a tiny bit of the lipstick as I did not want a matte finish to the lips because this was not presented on Taylor’s look.
Overall I think my look is successful but I need to work on my colour mixing and ensuring that foundation is very well blended so there are no visible lines on the face.
| Picture demonstrating foundation line |
Tuesday, December 9, 2014
Kit
During today's lesson our teacher talked to us about her kit. These are the notes I made.
-Zuca worth the investment label so you know it’s yours
-Emj makes mats that are better than coach roll as you keep using them and don’t have to wash them like towels
-Worth having straws incase artist wants to drink
-Keep weight distributed evenly otherwise Zuca will topple
-Cotton Pads and cotton buds
-Fragrance free make-up wipes
-Bioderma
-Paw-Paw ointment
-Aveda all sensitive
-Body moisturiser
-IPA
-Spirit gum, hydra spirit gum (water based)
-Mac studio sculpt
-Bobbi Brown stick foundation and creamy concealed set
-Make-up forever HD foundation
-Primers HD and illuminating
-Make-up forever camouflage concealer
-Make-up forever HD powder, Mac Pro finishing powder
-Mac mineralize skin finish powder based dewy foundation
-Brozers mix of matte and shimmer
-Mix shimmer and matte with blushers
-Have a lighter and darker of each shade
-Illamasqua gleam in aurora highlighter that transforms dull looking skin
-White powder for paling down skin on period work
-Revolution blush pallets
-Make-up forever flash pallet can do anything with them
-Eyeshadow bases painterly and groundwork skin tones
-Kryolan snow pure white good for neon base to intensify
-Mascara
-Illamasqua vow eye pencil
-Zuca worth the investment label so you know it’s yours
-Emj makes mats that are better than coach roll as you keep using them and don’t have to wash them like towels
-Worth having straws incase artist wants to drink
-Keep weight distributed evenly otherwise Zuca will topple
-Cotton Pads and cotton buds
-Fragrance free make-up wipes
-Bioderma
-Paw-Paw ointment
-Aveda all sensitive
-Body moisturiser
-IPA
-Spirit gum, hydra spirit gum (water based)
-Mac studio sculpt
-Bobbi Brown stick foundation and creamy concealed set
-Make-up forever HD foundation
-Primers HD and illuminating
-Make-up forever camouflage concealer
-Make-up forever HD powder, Mac Pro finishing powder
-Mac mineralize skin finish powder based dewy foundation
-Brozers mix of matte and shimmer
-Mix shimmer and matte with blushers
-Have a lighter and darker of each shade
-Illamasqua gleam in aurora highlighter that transforms dull looking skin
-White powder for paling down skin on period work
-Revolution blush pallets
-Make-up forever flash pallet can do anything with them
-Eyeshadow bases painterly and groundwork skin tones
-Kryolan snow pure white good for neon base to intensify
-Mascara
-Illamasqua vow eye pencil
Monday, December 8, 2014
References
ALAINPICHON.COM
Alain Pichon Hair | Gallery
In-text: (Alainpichon.com, 2014)Bibliography: Alainpichon.com, (2014). Alain Pichon Hair | Gallery. [online] Available at: http://www.alainpichon.com/gallery.html [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].- Website
ALAINPICHON.COM
Alain Pichon Hair | Profile
In-text: (Alainpichon.com, 2014)Bibliography: Alainpichon.com, (2014). Alain Pichon Hair | Profile. [online] Available at: http://www.alainpichon.com/profile.html [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014]. - Book
AUCOIN, K.
Making faces
In-text: (Aucoin, 1999)Bibliography: Aucoin, K. (1999). Making faces. Boston: Little, Brown. - Website
DANNY DEFREITAS | CELEBRITY HAIR & MAKE UP ARTIST
DANNY DEFREITAS | Celebrity Hair & Make Up Artist - ENTER
In-text: (DANNY DEFREITAS | Celebrity Hair & Make Up Artist, 2014)Bibliography: DANNY DEFREITAS | Celebrity Hair & Make Up Artist, (2014). DANNY DEFREITAS | Celebrity Hair & Make Up Artist - ENTER. [online] Available at: http://www.dannydefreitas.com [Accessed 29 Nov. 2014]. - ELLE Magazine Dec 2014 Issue
- Website
FASHION.TELEGRAPH.CO.UK
Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week: spring/summer 2014 blog - Telegraph
In-text: (Fashion.telegraph.co.uk, 2014)Bibliography: Fashion.telegraph.co.uk, (2014). Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week: spring/summer 2014 blog - Telegraph. [online] Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10583502/Paris-Haute-Couture-Fashion-Week-springsummer-2014-blog.html [Accessed 29 Nov. 2014]. GHDHAIR.COM
In-text: (Ghdhair.com, 2014)Bibliography: Ghdhair.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.ghdhair.com/ghd-iv-styler-collection/ghd-iv-styler [Accessed 5 Dec. 2014].- Website
GLAM UK
Backstage with Maybelline at ASHISH
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MAC Cosmetics UK | Foundation | Face And Body Foundation | Official UK Site
In-text: (Maccosmetics.co.uk, 2014)Bibliography: Maccosmetics.co.uk, (2014). MAC Cosmetics UK | Foundation | Face And Body Foundation | Official UK Site. [online] Available at: http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/158/393/Products/Face/Foundation/Face-And-Body-Foundation/index.tmpl [Accessed 6 Dec. 2014].MAKEUP AND BEAUTY BLOG: MAKEUP REVIEWS, TIPS, PICTURES AND MORE
MAC All About Orange Lipstick Pictures, Swatches, Review
In-text: (Makeup and Beauty Blog: Makeup Reviews, Tips, Pictures and More, 2013)Bibliography: Makeup and Beauty Blog: Makeup Reviews, Tips, Pictures and More, (2013). MAC All About Orange Lipstick Pictures, Swatches, Review. [online] Available at: http://www.makeupandbeautyblog.com/product-reviews/mac-all-about-orange-lipsticks/ [Accessed 5 Dec. 2014].- Website
MARCH, B.
Winnie Harlow owned the Ashish runway
In-text: (March, 2014)Bibliography: March, B. (2014). Winnie Harlow owned the Ashish runway. [online] Cosmopolitan. Available at: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/news/a29719/winnie-harlow-ashish-makeup-ss15/ [Accessed 5 Dec. 2014]. - Website
SPACENK.COM
Kevyn Aucoin The Legacy of a Makeup Icon | Space NK
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Maybelline Color Tattoo Eyeshadow On & On Bronze
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VOGUE
Pat McGrath - Photos - Vogue
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Sunday, December 7, 2014
Colour Theory
For homework our teacher asked us to learn our colour theory. This is very important in make-up as you need to know what colours will counteract each other. you work this out by taking colours from the opposite sides of the colour wheel. For example a peach toned concealer would counteract any blue tones under the eyes as orange is opposite blue on the colour wheel.
This theory can also be applied to someone's eye colour for example my eyes are a yellow green so a purple or cranberry tone would bring out the colour of my eyes.
This theory can also be applied to someone's eye colour for example my eyes are a yellow green so a purple or cranberry tone would bring out the colour of my eyes.
Face Chart
Today's lesson we looked at face charts.
I learnt that you must use powder and aqua colour on face charts. Cream products can smudge and tend to leave an oily residue.
The face chart I completed portrays the look I am going to re-create for my assessment.
I learnt that you must use powder and aqua colour on face charts. Cream products can smudge and tend to leave an oily residue.
The face chart I completed portrays the look I am going to re-create for my assessment.
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