Lip Looks

Today’s lesson focused on lips. We created three different looks the first being a clean red lip the next a deep burgundy ombre lip and the last one a glitter lip.

At the start of the lesson we discussed different lip products focusing on lip glosses. The first product we talked about was the Topshop lip polishes. These are a hybrid between a lip gloss and a lip balm as they have some moisturising properties but also add colour and shine to the lips. The three colours that my teacher suggested to us are ice coffee, poetic and smoothie these all have a nude tone and the three different shades cater to different skin tones.
The next product we talked about were the Saphora sheer lip glosses. These glosses give a really nice sheen to the lips. Unfortunately they are not readily available in the UK.
Another product that was suggested to us was the Marks and Spencer ultimate shine lip gloss. I’ve not used Marks and Spencer make-up before and to be honest hadn’t really thought to investigate or purchase it. My teacher however said that these lip glosses are some of the best on the market and provide a full coverage colour and shine to the lip.

Kryolan full coverage lipgloss also came into question these provide a solid colour with no shimmer.

The Cosmetics a la kart lip-gloss in plum was also suggested this is a nude full coverage lip-gloss that is made in London. This is a great product but does come with a luxury price tag. 

We then discussed the OCC lip tarts full these have a full coverage and a great range of colours but bleed very badly so must be prepped with a lip liner. 

Good lip-glosses for longevity are the Max factor infinity glosses  and the Maybelline 24 hour lipstick. Both of these products are budget friendly and will stay on all day. The only downside is that they can be a bit drying. Studio 10 is the ultimate long wear product it set and will never have to be topped up.

A popular product with some women is Mac’s plush lips which is used to plump the  lips. This product can be irritating to people who are not used to having product on their lips.

The glosses gold, peach and bronze from Mac can be used to highlight the lips. Mac sell glosses with glitter in and these are good for evening looks.

The final product we talked about was the Illamasqua high intense gloss. These lip glosses provide a very solid colour and have a huge range meaning you can use the colours like green, black and blue them for a high fashion avant-garde look of mix them to create the desired shade.

We then talked about how to prepare the lips for product.

Firstly to avoid a white line of excess skin forming it is important to exfoliate the lips. This can be done applying an ointment such as paw-paw or carmex to the lips and then using a toothbrush to remove any dead skin. Obviously for hygiene purposes you cannot use the toothbrush again so my toutor suggested buying a pack of toothbrushes from the pound shop. You then need to remove the excess ointment from the lip. 

Another step in prepping the lips is to use lipstick in similar colour to the gloss you have selected to increase wear time.

For hygiene purposes it is important to either spray IPA on to your lip liner or sharpen it.

We then moved on to creating the red lip. 

To make sure may shaping was good I used the technique my teacher had demonstrated of placing your elbow on the shoulder of your model being careful not to press too hard on them and then putting your hand under their chin.

-I started by outlining my lips with the Mac lip liner in cherry on the cupids bow trying to stick to the natural lip shape but also balancing out the lips where needed. I feel that this went well and I created a good even shape. 

-I used the side of my pencil on the corners of the mouth as I needed more product there as lipstick tends to fade here first. Using the side of the pencil also fills the corners of the mouth in quickly as the pencil transfers in a thicker line. 

-I then use  Mac’s ruby woo lipstick which is a neutral tone red to fill in the rest of the lips starting in the centre and working outwards so I didn’t disrupt the sharp lip line I had created with my pencil. Due to the fact that ruby woo is a matte lipstick it is quite dry to work with meaning that it doesn’t glide over the lips very easily. I found that this meant I added more product than I may have with other products and I was conscious of dragging the delicate skin on my models lips.

-To set the lipstick I separated a 2 ply tissue placed it over lips then took a buffing brush and applied translucent powder over the tissue. This deposited a small amount of powder to the lips setting them but not ruining the look.

-There were a few areas where you could see a bit of the white powder do I went back in with my lip brush to hide this

Overall I think my red was successful. I created a good lip shape and the colour was even and solid. I think the one area I could improve on is not being scared to overdraw slightly resulting in a fuller looking lip. 

The next look I worked to achieve was the vampy ombre look

-To start off I look the mixed colours 10 and 8 from my kryolan pallet which created a red tine purple colour and applied this all over the lip being careful to create a sharp edge. I think I could have been more generous in applying this as my lips weren’t completely opaque 

-To create the ombre effect I then applied Mac’s eye kohl in feline around outside of the lip and some extra to the corners of the mouth. Even though feline is sold as a eye pencil it also works on lips because it is very soft. I was a bit worried that I had been too messy when applying this but after I had blended it in it was fine.

-My final step in creating this look was to apply some red lipstick in middle of the lip as this added to the ombre effect.

I think this look was less successful than my red lip. Altough I managed to create the ombre effect I think due to the fact the colour came out relatively sheer it didn’t have a very high impact.

The last look I created was the glitter lips.

-I used Mac’s blacktrack gel liner as a base on the lips for this look. I found this a little challenging as blacktrack dries quickly so if you make a mistake in creating a good lip shape it take make-up remover to rectify it. I combated this by using a cotton bud which echoed the rounded shape of my models lips.

-I then applied a small amount of Vaseline over the top of the blacktrack to give the glitter something to stick to. I tried to make sure I only applied a very small amount as I didn't want the glitter to be too movable.

-I then pressed the glitter onto lips with a clean eye shadow brush being careful not to drag the product as this would have  disrupted the blacktrack I had previously applied and not given a solid glitter look to the lip.

Red lip final look

-To clean up the glitter that had not gone onto the lip I used a to brush it off any fine hairs spool and took some masking tape round my fingers which lifted any glitter off the skin. My teacher suggested wrapping the tape around a makeup brush to get a more controlled clean up after the initial use of tape . For me this wasn't necessary.

I am happy with this shape and opacity I created with this look but if did it again I would probably choose a brighter coloured glitter as I feel that this would have more impact.  

Ombre lip step 1

Ombre lip step 2

Ombre lip finished look

Glitter Lips Final Look

Burberry

These images are examples of make-up created by Wendy Rowe for Burberry's autumn winter show at London fashion week. This look features a clean base I can see some freckles showing through the base on some of the models which leads me to believe that a sheer coverage foundation was used the skin also has a satin Finnish to it therefore if I were to recreate this look I would probably use a foundation similar to Estee Lauder double wear light . This look also features simple brows. What is different about this look is that the focus is mainly on the eyes.A purple eye-shadow has been used on the lid and under the eyes this shadow looks to be a matte purple. I don't have anything like this in my kit but I think that Mac's fig would create the desired look. It looks as if the lips have been left without any product and it's just the models natural lip colour showing. Images from  http://en.vogue.fr/beauty-tips/beauty-secrets/diaporama/fw2014-burberry-prorsum-beauty-backstage-wendy-rowe-neil-moody-london-fashion-week-fall-winter-2014-2015/17600

Tanya Taylor

The following images are of Tanya Taylor's Make-up from New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015. They  are quite similar to the Zac Posner look in that they also feature clean skin, simple eyes and a bold lip. I few differences I can see are that I looks as if the eyes have a very sheer wash of a shimmery bronze colour. If I were to recreate this look I would use the Maybelline 24 hour colour tattoo in 'on and on bronze'to achieve this as it is a cream eye-shadow so works well for creating a very sheer coverage and doesn't crease. The brows look to have been kept very natural so therefore I would just use some brow gel on them. There also only looks to be one coat of mascara on the lashes .It also looks like the models have a sheerer coverage foundation on so therefore Mac's face and body foundation may work better for this.The skin also looks to have a golden glow so therefore I would mix some highlighter in with my foundation to achieve this I think benefits sun beam would work well for this. The last difference I can see is that the lip in this look has a more yellow undertone making it an orange colour therefore I would either mix this colour using my Kryolan pallet or use a lipstick like Mac's 'vegas volt'. Images from http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b--tanya-taylor-beauty-ss-15.

Zac Posen

Some examples of looks from Zac Posen in New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2014 I like how this look mainly focuses on the lip and keeps the eyes and skin clean and simple. I think this look would have been created using a medium coverage foundation with a dewy finnish similar to Mac's studio sculpt as the skin looks very flawless and dewy. I also think that the brows just would have had some brow gel rum through them. On some of the models it is more apparent but it looks as if the eyes lids have a slight gloss to them this may have been created with something similar to Vaseline or clear lip gloss. It doesn't look as if any false lashes have been used just a light coating of mascara and possible some tight lining or a very fine line of liner applied to the top lashline. It looks as if some different reds have been used on the different models. If I were creating this look I would probably use Ruby Woo lipstick from mac as it has a neutral undertone and therefore suits most people.I would also make sure to use a lip liner to achieve the clean line seen in these visuals. Photos taken from http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b--zac-posen-beauty-ss-15

Marc Jacobs

Make-up from the Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2014 collection is different to the other make-up looks I have seen on the catwalk as they feature a very strong eye. This make-up looks very minimal apart from the strong blue block eye-shadow. I don't have this eye-shadow in my kit or my personal make-up as it is not a colour I would wear myself. I feel an appropriate shadow that could be used to create this look would be Mac's freshwater as this is close to the blue tone featured in the following pictures and has a shimmery finish.The skin looks very simple to me so I would guess that no base was used on the models with good skin and just concealer used on those who had a blemishes that needed covering. If any base was used I would think it would have been something very light such as BB cream or tinted moisturiser.
To me it doesn't look as if any mascara has been used and the brows don't appear to have been filled in. The lips also look to be product free.
Images from http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b--marc-by-marc-jacobs-beauty-ss-14