Today was my first lesson in fashion makeup and we focused
on getting a good base therefore to start the lesson we had a group discussion
about foundations you have to use in different areas of makeup and general
recommendations.
We first discussed how for TV and Film you must use HD foundations as the skin will look awful on a HD camera if you don’t use it, Makeup Forever do a good HD foundation. The next foundation we talked about was Mac studio sculpt this is a medium coverage foundation with a dewy finish. This is a good one for fashion because it’s moveable. Whilst on the topic of Mac foundations we discussed studio fix fluid this foundation was not a very popular one with quite a few people as they said it tends to cause them break outs our teacher then told use that this happens because it contains ingredients that block your skin so this product is not appropriate for everyday but is good for special occasions as it lasts a very long time has a matte finish and is buildable in coverage. The last Mac foundation we talked about was face and body I was not a fan of this foundation prior to our discussion as I found it didn’t make any difference to the appearance of my skin and is so thin that it would just get soaked up by my brush. My teacher said that this foundation is actually one of the best as it can be used for everything and once you know how to work with it will be your be friend. The foundation is water based and if you put it onto a pallet or the back of your hand and manipulate it with your brush for a while it will thicken. You can also use this foundation on the body to perfect skin and give it a nice sheen to do this you work the product into the body with your hands it is also transfer proof so great for this. The last foundation discussed was Illamasqua skin base. This foundation is nice for photos as it doesn’t give any flashback Illamasqua also have an amazing colour range so you can cover all skin tones however this not great on oily skin as it has a more creamy consistency. The main thing I took from this discussion is to make sure I read and research products as it is important to know what’s in the product before putting on mine or anyone else’s skin.
We then moved on to creating a look for clean fresh skin using
a sheer coverage.
For this look our teacher said to conceal first, this was
something different for me as I normally use foundation first and then see
where concealer is needed however because this look requires minimal coverage
it is best to do it the over way around.
I started by using the derma cover palette I mixed the colour for my
model on back of my hand rather than a pallet as this product can be hard to
work with so you need the heat form the back of your hand to warm it up and
make it more movable. My model was wearing fake tan therefor the on her body
skin had a yellow undertone so I mixed a yellow tones with a little bit of
neutral so her face would match the rest of her body.
My model had some redness on her cheeks and around her nose.
The concealer colour I mixed worked well to counteract this due to the yellow
tone. I didn’t add too much coverage to the part of her cheek above the
cheekbone as I thought this could come through the sheer coverage foundation I
would be using. My model also had some blue shadows under her eyes so I added
some pink to my already mixed colour to counteract this. I also applied a little concealer on my models
eyelid as she had some veins showing in that area. Whilst doing this I tried to
make sure I used the product lightly as I wanted to achieve the look of having
no makeup on the skin.
After this I moved in to foundation. I used Mac’s face and body as it has a sheer coverage and dewy finish. Prior to applying this to the face I pat the product onto hand first to oxidise it so it would be thicker and easier to work with, this is a technique I need to work on as my foundation didn’t thicken very much. I then buffed the product onto the skin very lightly this created a nice glow to the skin and help smoothed out the concealer I had previously applied pulling everything together.
I then set the foundation and concealer using Mac’s prep and
prime powder. This product worked well as it is a translucent powder so didn’t
add any additional coverage to the skin. To apply this I did as our teacher
suggested and put this product onto my hand first then onto face to ensure I achieved
a very fine veil of powder which would make sure it wouldn’t settle into any
lines. I applied powder under the eyes last as this area tends to crease and used
a small blending brush apply this so as not to irritate the models eyes by
using a large powder brush
I then moved on to the look for a heavy coverage.
I started by using the Le Maquillage Morag Ross colour pallet to mix a foundation
colour and applied this all over the face. I found this a bit thick and sticky
to work with at first. I then added some mix medium to foundation and applied
this over the top of the existing coverage, this made the foundation adhere
more to the skin and helped to stop it looking so cakey.
I then took the sole pink tone from the Derma colour pallet
and put this under the eyes to cancel out any blue/purple tones. I then set the look with powder using the same
technique as I did when creating the light coverage look.
To round off the look
I used a lip colour as blush and applied this by patting in in with my ring
finger and then use a tad of foundation over top of it so it blended nicely.
This was a technique that I had not used before but I really like the result as
I feel it looked more natural than a powder blush. I also feel that on the side
of the face where I had done a heavy coverage look a powder blush may have
looked cakey due the amount of product that would have been underneath it. I
also think this will probably last longer than a powder blush. I then applied
the same colour to the lips; I think this tied the look together nicely.
Overall I was happy with the colour match of my foundations
but I think I need to work on making the full coverage side look more like
natural skin. I feel to work on this I should work on building my foundation up
in very thin layers rather than putting on lots at once. I also could have
concealed under the eyes better.
